The terms right/left and right/wrong when used to refer to your knitted fabric can sometimes be confusing.  Let's try to clarify things!

You often see the abbreviation RS (right side) and WS (wrong side) in your patterns.  The right side is the outside, or "public side" of a garment.  The wrong side is the "nonpublic"side, or the inside of the garment.  You are often instructed to put a marker or pin on the right side of the fabric -- this is to make it easy to identify which side is the right side since many pattern stitches and shaping instructions are executed with the right side facing.

The right/left side designations are referring to a particular piece of the sweater.  The right front of a cardigan refers to piece that you would be wearing on your right side.  The same applies to instructions to shape the right neck edge, or right armhole edge -- it would be the side worn on the right half of your body. 

One of the hardest parts of any crochet project is working into the foundation chain.  Inevitably, almost every crocheter finds that the beginning foundation chains are sometimes too tight.  The easiest way to avoid the too-tight chain is to use a hook one or two sizes larger than the one you'll use for the rest of the project.  Just don't forget to change back to the smaller hook after completing the chain. 

How many times have you been told in a pattern to "join, being careful not to twist........"  Easier said than done sometimes, right?  Here are some tips on how to make this join and "not twist" thing a little less stressful!

First, line up the knotted side of the cast-on stitches so that they are all on the inside of your circular needle with the loops on the outside.  Slide your stitches around so that they are at the tips of both needles.  There are several ways to join the stitches:

#1 The simplest way is to begin by working the first stitch on the left-hand needle, using the yarn coming from the last stitch on the right-hand needle.

#2  Another way is to cast on one extra stitch.  Slide the new stitch from the right-hand needle onto the left needle, and then work that stitch together with the next stitch on the left needle as if they were one.  This "knitted together" stitch will be the first stitch of the round.

#3  Yet another method is to exchange the last stitch on the right-hand needle with the first stitch on the left-hand needle -- simply have them switch places.

 Regardless of which method you use, remember to slide a marker onto your right-hand needle at the beginning of the round so that you will know when you have worked a complete round.

 If you frequently find that your work is twisted after a few rounds, and you are tired of starting over, you might consider working 2 to 4 rows in flat, back-and-forth knitting before making the join.  This way it is easier to make sure the knitting doesn't twist.  You can sew the slit at the beginning of the rounds closed when you finish your project.